Milan Fashion Week: Spring/summer 2026 collection and industry shifts

ISLAMABAD: Milan Fashion Week continued on Sunday with designers presenting spring/summer 2026 womenswear collections. key shows included Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Stella Jean’s return and presentations from Ferragamo, Fendi, Tod’s, Versace, and Roberto Cavalli.

The event attracted celebrity attendees such as Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, Demi Moore, and Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

Dolce & Gabbana and “The Devil Wears Prada” filming
Dolce & Gabbana unveiled their “PJ Obsession” collection, featuring luxurious reinterpretations of men’s classic striped pyjamas combined with black lingerie and tailoring. The show illustrated a woman moving “between boudoir and city life.”

Actors Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci attended in character as Miranda Priestly and Nigel Kipling from the upcoming film “The Devil Wears Prada 2,” which is partly filmed in Milan. Vogue editor Anna Wintour, the inspiration for Streep’s character, was also present.

The collection celebrates “the freedom to redefine boundaries between private and public” with pajama-style trousers, shirts, lace lingerie, and oversized jackets.

Stella Jean’s return and appeal for artisan support
Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean returned after a three-year break. Her collection featured collaborations with artisans from Bhutan, including handwoven tego jackets, embroidered skirts made from nettle fibre, and silk dresses with beaded village scenes.

Jean called for political support for Italian craftmanship, which she said is “dying out” as fewer young people enter the trades. She urged lawmakers to extend tax breaks given to artworks to fine craftsmanship, encouraging investment in pieces that can take a year to complete.

She talked about the need for fairy pay for artisans, warning that without support, craftsmanship would survive only in museums. Jean also paid tribute to the late Giorgio Armani, who helped establish the Italian fashion globally. She unfurled a T-shirt signed “Grazie, Mr. Armani: at her show.

Artisans from Bhutan attended the show in traditional clothing.

Other designers and trends
Ferragamo’s Maximilian Davis looked to the 1920s, presenting colourful speakeasy-inspired suits and dresses with dropped waists, low backs, and tassels, reflecting a rebellious spirit.

Antonio Marras evoked literary figures on holiday in Sardinia. Models walked a runway scattered with salt, wearing patterned frocks, suits, and carrying sketchbooks and musical instruments.

Prada focused on uniform-inspired designs, including military-style jumpsuits, shirts under fitted dresses, and long gloves, blending ladylike and boyish elements.

Fendi offered bright collections with button-down shirt dresses and sheer blouses with tight collars. Tod’s showcased oversized striped shirts over leather minis, as well as striped draped dresses and matching handbags in warm tones.

Dario Vitale’s debut at Versace featured bright striped trousers, bold print shirts, and neon elements under the theme “outrageous and uncomplicated elegance.”

Max Mara incorporated black elastic belts and bands on floral prints and feather-like gowns, adding a modern, edgy contrast. Designer Ian Griffiths described the style as “modern, twangy, snappy” with an almost fetishistic quality.

Emporio Armani showed kimono fastenings, layering colorful or black tops and trousers with floaty dresses. Boss used thin leather belts and cumberbands to define leather jackets.

Roberto Cavalli’s “Gold Obsession” collection celebrated glamour with gold hues inspired by Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra, featuring figure-hugging dresses in liquid jersey and coated lace.

Gucci’s creative lead Demna presented red carpet-inspired pieces in a short film starring Demi Moore, featuring oversized faux fur coats and extravagant gowns modelled by tennis star Serena Williams.

Legacy of Giorgio Armani
This Milan Fashion Week is the first without Giorgio Armani, who died aged 91. Emporio Armani’s collection, called Ritorni (Returns), evoked post-holiday moods with roomy trousers, soft metallic knits, and floaty dresses, and carried emotional significance as one of Armani’s last designs.

Milan Fashion Week will conclude on Monday, ahead of Paris Fashion Week.

With input from Associated Press (AP).